phi phi

After that epic 24 hour trip across what seemed like almost every fucking mile of Malaysia, I'm pleased to be on the amazing island of Phi Phi Don - nestled between Krabi and Phuket on the west coast of Thailand, or, more famously, where The Beach was filmed all those years ago.

I came here f0r four days in June last year, and fell in love with the place from the moment I got off the boat. Whilst I'm not one for going back to places I've been to before, I just couldn't resist another trip to this infamous island while I was in the neighbourhood.

Phi Phi is a kind of marmite type of place - some love it, some hate it, but the latter are very much in a minority. Those who turn their noses up at Phi Phi tend to be those who regard it as over developed, over crowded and overly vulgar. The type of Thailand tourist that is looking for the kind of escapism Alex Garland encapsulated in his famous book.

In a way, the case for the prosecution has a point. The island was wiped to ground zero by the Tsunami in 2004, but the authorities definitely missed a trick with the way it was re-built. The streets are sprawling with many less than attractive shacks, and the tourist 'village' is a seemingly never ending stream of touts selling boat rides and dive trips, bars, ATMs, massage parlours, restaurants and shops flogging jewellery, buckets of cheap whiskey and the like. This place will never win any cultural awards.

In defence of Phi Phi, none of the above can detract from the absurdly stunning features of its landscape, the beauty of its beaches and the clearness of the sky blue sea. Also, while it can feel over developed and busy, it is a very small island. There are no roads, no cars, no motorbikes. Everything is clustered around a small stretch in between the two main bays. And, yes, there are lots of shops and bars in that area. But whether or not you think this is a bad or a good thing, simply depends on the type of holiday you're looking for. I would also stress that while Phi Phi is hardly unspoilt, it has escaped the likes of McDonalds and Starbucks while most parts of Thailand have not. Virtually all of the businesses here are locals trying to make a decent living on a paradise island - something I'm not going to criticise anyone for. Now, where's tonight's beach party?